Cape Coast Castle

I knew my visit to the notorious slave trading headquarters The Cape Coast Castle would be difficult, but I had no idea how difficult it would be. I have never been to the site of the Nazi Concentration camp at Auschwitz or the Killing Fields of Cambodia or any site of mass atrocities. Our very animated tour guide, Eric, was excellent at explaining the demented history that took place here (a very dark skinned Ghanaian, don't let the western name confuse you).

We walked through a door that I am happy I didn't walk through 200 years ago

Tears streamed down my face as I stood at the Gate of No Return where over two million Africans exited the castle to board ships, usually bound for the USA or the Caribbean. Those who made it to this gate were the “lucky ones.” More people - and when I say people, I'm talking not only about men but women and children as well – died in the holding cells before they had a chance to be packed onto slave ships. The Africans who passed through the Gate of No Return were chained together in 'chain gangs.' Eric told us that groups of people would jump off the row boats that took them to the ships anchored off shore, preferring to drown than become slaves. The entire group of soon-to-be-slaves who were chained to these jumpers would all get pulled overboard with them. The stories were atrocious.

Africans leaving these shores today return that same day on their fishing boats

I have to say that the most disturbing stories Eric told centered around the stave traders and their religion. Located right above the men's slave quarters was the castle's church. While close to a thousand humans were chained together in dark, cold cells – urinating, defecating, vomiting and dying on each other – the slave traders were holding church ceremonies directly above them! Before the slaves went into these dark holding cells, they were baptized, given Christian names and then branded! And the names of some of the ships that took the Africans to the New World included The Good Ship Jesus and Glorious Mary. All early Portuguese slave ships had the name of a virgin or saint!

Canon balls were used to fight off pirates. The munitions with the wholes were filled with gun powder.

Barack and Michelle Obama were at this Castle July 11, 2009. The wreath they laid in one of the slave cells still looks new.

The wreath the Obamas left at the Cape Coast Castle

Neither Vân or I took this photo. Barack at the Castle just months before us.

In both our previous hotels we had air conditioning. This was going to be a hot night in Cape Coast.

Takes a community to pull in these fishing nets.

Good to be at the beach. The breeze helps in the near 100 degree heat.